After recently learning the basics of embroidery, I decided that I wanted to put my mother's family name into something to display and share with my Ferguson aunts. I designed the drawing for this mini while deciding on a tattoo I would like to get. Not everyone was on board for jumping into that pool with me, so, alas, I tattooed some gorgeous Cotton + Steel basics fabric and paired it up with some spool quilt blocks.
*Note: all seam allowances are 1/4" unless otherwise noted.
*Note: all seam allowances are 1/4" unless otherwise noted.
Getting Started
To make a spool block, you will need the following:
scraps of two coordinating fabrics
thread: you can have a basic for putting the block together, and a coordinating for quilting
sewing machine
cutting mat
rotary cutter
acrylic ruler
fabric pencil
iron and ironing board
pins
batting
fabric for backing
safety pins for basting
fabric for binding
needle and thread for hand binding
scraps of two coordinating fabrics
thread: you can have a basic for putting the block together, and a coordinating for quilting
sewing machine
cutting mat
rotary cutter
acrylic ruler
fabric pencil
iron and ironing board
pins
batting
fabric for backing
safety pins for basting
fabric for binding
needle and thread for hand binding
Cutting Instructions
From your main scrap fabric, cut two 2 7/8" squares and three 2 1/2" squares.
From the coordinating fabric, cut the same cuts: two 2 7/8" squares and two 2 1/2" squares.
From the coordinating fabric, cut the same cuts: two 2 7/8" squares and two 2 1/2" squares.
Half Square Triangles
There are many different methods to making half square triangles. The quickest one for this project, for me, is to layer the
2 7/8" squares with right sides facing (RSF) on top of each other. Using your ruler and a fabric pen or pencil, make a diagonal line from one corner to the opposing corner. Line up your sewing machine foot along this line, set your stitch to a 1/4" setting and sew corner to corner, using this line you drew as a guide. When you get to the end, snip the threads, line up the other side with your foot, and stitch down to the corner you began at. Snip the threads. Press the seams open. Repeat this for your other 2 7/8" pair.
2 7/8" squares with right sides facing (RSF) on top of each other. Using your ruler and a fabric pen or pencil, make a diagonal line from one corner to the opposing corner. Line up your sewing machine foot along this line, set your stitch to a 1/4" setting and sew corner to corner, using this line you drew as a guide. When you get to the end, snip the threads, line up the other side with your foot, and stitch down to the corner you began at. Snip the threads. Press the seams open. Repeat this for your other 2 7/8" pair.
*Note: I don't like those little corners sticking off of my blocks, so I clip them when I trim my threads.
Stitching It Up
Using the picture of the finished block as your guide, line up your top row, pinning as needed. Sew. Press your seams open. Repeat with the next two rows: middle and bottom. Now, you are going to sew the rows together. It's important to make sure your blocks line up. Pin them so that your seams are as close to lined up as you can get them.
Sew up your rows. Press your seam allowances open.
Finishing the Block
Once you have your block all sewn and pressed, you will want to square it up so all your edges are the same. Using your ruler and cutting mat, line up your block to equal 6" x 6". Trim up the edges.
Hooray! You're done...with the first block. Repeat these steps for the other three blocks.
Putting the Quilt Together
Lay your four blocks out in whatever pattern you find the most pleasing. Everything should line up perfectly, if you trimmed up your blocks as discussed before. Make sure, when lining up your individual blocks, to pin your seams so that the blocks line up.
Trim your accented embroidery piece to fit your blocks. If your unfinished blocks were 6" like mine, your completed four, as seen above, will come to about 11.5". So, cut your accent piece to a length of 11.5" and whatever width you find suits your block.
*Note: Make sure you press your block, as needed, to ensure an easy stitch up.
Sew your accented embroidery piece to your spools. Press your seams open.
Sew your accented embroidery piece to your spools. Press your seams open.
Decide what you will use for your batting and backing. I used a high loft batting scrap that I had leftover from reupholstering my dining room chairs. Trim it up so be an inch wider than your quilt top on all sides. Do the same with your backing fabric. Layer them with wrong side up of your backing fabric, then batting, then quilt top right side up.
Baste your mini quilt. I use large safety pins to baste. You can tie your up, if you prefer, though.
Quilt your "sandwich" using your favorite quilting method. (Mini quilts are nice because they give you the opportunity to practice your quilting techniques without having the bulk of a large quilt in your way.)
Trim up your edges so all your layers are even.
Binding
To create your binding, you will need a fabric the width of fabric and 2" wide. I forgot to take a picture of this step. :( Press your strip in half. Starting in the middle of a side, leave a few inches of binding unsewn. (This will come in handy as you finish up your binding.) Line up your raw edges of the binding to the raw edges of your quilt top.
When you get to the corners, you will need to fold them up so that they will be mitered when you're finishing the binding on the back. I didn't get a shot of this either, but you can use this link to find out how to miter quilt corners. When you get to be about 4 inches from where the "tail" of your quilt began, pin down your binding and line up your two ends to create a finishing of your binding. Sew and press your seams open. Finish sewing down your binding and voile. You have sewn your binding to your quilt top. Now, grab that needle and thread and let's hand sew this guy up to finish it off.
Wrap your binding around to the back of your quilt and, using a ladder/blind stitch, sew your binding to your backing. Make sure you don't come through the front of your quilt. You only want to catch the backing fabric and the underside of your binding fabric.
Wrap your binding around to the back of your quilt and, using a ladder/blind stitch, sew your binding to your backing. Make sure you don't come through the front of your quilt. You only want to catch the backing fabric and the underside of your binding fabric.
Excellent! You're all finished! Now, you have a great little display quilt. Happy sewing and please, leave a comment. This is my first how-to blog and I'm open for all constructive criticism.
Keep sweating and sewing!
Adora
Keep sweating and sewing!
Adora